Bollinger is one of the few houses to make wine solely from grapes sourced from the Marne, in the heart of the Champagne region. Eighty-five percent of its grapes come from premier and grand-cru vineyards, with Bollinger itself owning 164 hectares of vines. The company has heavily invested in studies of pinot noir to find the clone most suited to its vineyards.
“I drink it when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it—unless I’m thirsty.”